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Logo: The Dreamweaver Collection


Corrections for The Dreamweaver Collection

The below applies to the designs Sapana, Pele, Dilga, and to the Abbreviations list.

Sapana, p.18.

I have made an error in calculating the sleeves for sizes S and L. The decreases and neck shaping is worked as given, only the number of sts on the needle is affected:

...for sleeve, cast on 44 (44) 52 sts above the bound-off sts, work 80 (84) 92 sts, cast on 44 (44) 52 sts above the bound-off sts, work 80 (84) 92 sts = 248 (256) 288 sts.

After all the decrease there are (132) (132) 152 sts on the needle, that is 66 (66) 76 sts for front and back neck.


Pele, p.38, Front:

The length to armhole is off, it should read:
When you reach row 27 ( 25) 23 (21) on the 2nd repeat, bind off 4 sts for the armhole ...

After the instructions on how to shape the neck the text states
... Work without further shaping until the piece measures...
This should naturally be .. until the armhole measures....


Dilga, p.55:

I'm sorry, I have made an error in the length of the garment and I can't for the life of me reconstruct where the numbers come from, so I have recalculated:

The full length should be: 23¾ (24) 24½ (24¾) in / 60 (61) 62 (63) cm.
Length to armhole is then only 14¾ in / 37 cm.

Clarification concerning the pattern:

There is no set number of motifs per row, the number of motifs will differ depending on which size you knit and where you are in the pattern sequence.

The chart shows all the pattern rows, so with the wrong side rows (not shown in the chart), the pattern consists of 10 rows. This means that you always have 2 right side rows without pattern and 3 right side rows with pattern.

Please read the Pattern section on p. 56 thoroughly. If you follow those instructions, things should fall into place. The pattern is not difficult, it is just an unusual way to create a pattern.

This is how the instructions tell you to start:
Begin with: Edge st, 5 sts, motif, 5 sts, motif, 10 sts, motif, 15 sts, motif, 25 sts, motif, 40 sts, motif, and then begin again with 5 sts, motif, 5 sts, motif, etc.

Using stitch markers will make it much easier to follow the pattern sequence. On row 5, work until the 1st motif and place a marker; work to the next motif and place marker, etc.
   On the following pattern row, you will see (or rather, feel) where to work the motifs and shouldn’t have to concentrate too much on the pattern. On row 9, remove the markers. Note where in the Fibonacci sequence the row ends so that you will know where to start the next repeat above!

This means that the only point in the pattern where you have to think is the row where you position the motifs. At this point you need to know where in the sequence you are. It may be a help to note each pattern row as you go; You would only have to note the number before, between and after motifs, i.e. for size M: 5, 5, 10, 15, 25, 18.
   So for this row you have an edge st, Edge st, 5 sts, motif, 5 sts, motif, 10 sts, motif, 15 sts, motif, 25 sts, motif, 18 sts and the last edge st. It also tells you that for the next pattern row you will have to start with edge st, 22 (40 - 18 = 22), motif and then start the sequence again with 5 sts, motif, 5 sts, motif, 10 sts, motif, etc.

If you were to err on a stitch somewhere in the sequence, that would most likely never be noticeable. The pattern has a random character.
 

Abbreviations, p. 62:
Sk2p should of course read: slip 1, k2tog, psso.

   I'm sorry!
    Elsebeth Lavold

 


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Copyright © unless otherwise stated
 Elsebeth Lavold, knitwear design & drawings
Anders Rydell, text & photos